Dining

FERRIS – URBAN SIMPLICITY AT ITS Very best in NYC

t this newly opened subterranean dining spot. A little low-ceilinged dining room seems spacious and airy, because of its light wood decor and open kitchen concept; and accommodates as much as 40 guests at cozy tables with cushioned seating, lovely butcher block communal tables, or the chef's counter where diners have front row seats and the best look at the kitchen.

Chef Greg Proechel, formerly of 11 Madison Park, Blanca, and many recently, Le Turtle, is a refined and thoughtful chef with a sharp talent for understanding how to combine flavors and artfully present composed dishes. At Ferris, his New American cuisine has numerous French influences in addition to obvious Asian leanings with inclusions of yuzu, miso, and ponzu in several of the offerings; as the yogurt and succulent lamb that accompanied agnolotti stuffed with a pleasing burst of sweet creamy carrot filling gave an impact of Morocco.

Minimalism showcases Chef Proechel's talents best, as with his outstanding mackerel dish, served by having an egg yolk nested by tiny bits of Italian plum, and a delicate pool of ponzu. The fish was perfectly moist with a coveted crispy exterior, and turned out to be a great bite with the yolk, plum, and sauce. Additionally, a slightly aggressive char of eggplant jam provided a nice note to chunky slices of precisely-cooked duck breast and side of rutabaga; and we loved the charred broccolini with crispy brussels sprout leaves, yogurt, and cashews. It is always nice to determine seasonal vegetables celebrated, particularly when the often undervalued sun choke is the star of an entree. Here, they're oven-roasted and served with smoked cabbage, and rounded out by sweet touches of blood orange and scallion miso.

With nice varietals in the United States and Europe, your wine list is impressive; but it's the house specialty cocktails that steal the show. We especially liked a vodka, fennel, ginger, and lime drink called L'Amie that had a spicy kick and was playfully garnished having a big slice of fennel. To finish the meal, we asked for something light, and received a heavenly palate-cleansing dessert of frozen yogurt, little fruit slices, and lime. It had been an ideal and refreshing way to close out a fantastic meal.

44 West 29th Street
between Broadway and Sixth Ave.
212-213-4420 | ferrisnyc.com

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